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The 4x4 ride from Panama City shakes you to pieces and I almost regretted it on the way, but the moment you step into the boat and see the colour of the water you forget everything. We slept in a cabin with a sand floor on Isla Diablo. The disconnection is total, there are no luxuries, but eating freshly caught fish under the stars is priceless.
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We did a two-day trip and slept in hammocks. It had been a long time since I fell asleep with the sea that close. The food was simple — rice, patacones and the catch of the day — but delicious. I recommend dry bags for the boat leg, because the swell soaks all your luggage.
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I went with my partner on a sailing trip instead of staying in a fixed cabin, and it was the right call. They take you to completely deserted cays where you are literally alone with your friends. Swimming with manta rays early in the morning leaves you speechless.
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The best part was the night: zero light pollution, you see the whole Milky Way. The cabins are rustic, made of cane, and some wind gets in, but the climate is so warm you do not even need a jacket. I would go back a thousand times just for the peace you breathe there.
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It is pure nature, unfiltered. You have to know what you are going for: the electricity runs only a couple of hours at night off a generator and there is no wifi, which turned out to be the best part. I read two whole books sitting under a palm tree.
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We did the crossing to Colombia through San Blas and those three days sailing between islands were the best stretch of the trip. Watching dolphins ride the bow at dawn was magical.
Adventure ★ Best seller 
